It’s been 60 years since Mario Lelli opened this inviting Italian spot. Just down the street from the Hilberry Theatre, generations of theatergoers have enjoyed multicourse meals here. This is exactly the kind of place people think of when they think Italian restaurant. All the favorites from veal Tosca and spaghetti Bolognese to shrimp scampi and chicken cacciatore are served by a competent waitstaff in a series of rooms. Get everything from the humble chicken mariata soup ($4.50) to the mammoth chateaubriand for two ($65).