Angelina Italian Bistro

Both co-owners had Sicilian grandmothers, and both toiled in other people’s restaurants — for a total of 50 years — before making their dream come true. The experience shows, with Italian food (and some extras) at “prices that reflect the new reality” -- at least when it comes to the entrées and the wines. There are only three pasta dishes (four if you count the potato-and-flour gnocchi) and three pizzas. The sophisticated Italian menu is supplemented by some fabulous cured and smoked fish and meats as antipasti and by a few dishes that would be comfortable on any menu, such as New York strip, salmon and a pork chop. Also consider the fitting accompaniments: a pile of flaked Parmigiano-Reggiano with a bit of balsamic; a mound of watercress with a superior lemony dressing; a little metal cup of assorted olives; a puddle of grainy mustard. It’s all good. See the menu and the drinks list at angelinadetroit.com.