Syrian-born owner Ziad Atasi’s take on Middle Eastern standards compares favorably with those found in many of his white-tablecloth, sit-down competitors. Not that you can’t sit down in his plain, tiny storefront — he can accommodate 10 diners at the narrow counters along the walls and windows. But most of his patrons are happy to bring their food home. The eatery earned the best suburban “cheap-eats” laurels in the 2004 Metro Times competition, and a restaurant does not win a cheap-eats award just because its fare is modestly priced. Happily, the King delivers on culinary quality.