For more than 20 years, in two locations and under two owners and two names, D’Pauli’s (formerly Giorgio’s) has thrived on its reputation as a diner with upscale surprises: steak Diane, veal Marsala, a burger with chutney and Bordelaise sauce. Today, though, the burgers have taken a way-back seat on the dinner menu; only three are offered, plus five sandwiches. The rest of the long menu is a mix of items like those you’d find at Big Boy (such as “Light Delight,” tuna and cottage cheese) and such higher-falutin ones as steak au poivre and veal piccata. (Lunch tends more to the bacon cheeseburger side, while breakfast will bring you anything from house-made hash browns to Belgian waffle jubilee, with flaming Kirsch.) One of the dishes D’Pauli’s is famous for is tomato basil bisque. It’s salmon-colored, with one big piece of basil in it, rather sweet, and served with Krispy saltines in cellophane packets. Another nice touch is the little plate of olive oil with a dab of basil pesto, brought at the outset with warm rolls. Veal Marsala also delivers a big punch of sweetness. Portion sizes are truly enormous; that’s where the value comes in, especially if you take advantage of the 2-6 p.m. 20 percent off Early Bird Special.